Cheesewring and Dewerstone

Low tide at 7pm, a big swell and 40mph winds, not to mention 10C and possible showers – you’d be hard pressed to pick a less conducive set of conditions for Culm Coast climbing! Hence the decision to explore some of the inland crags available in the vicinity.

Cheesewring is an odd name, and befits the place to some extent. Named after the jenga-tower structure that looms above the crag, this granite quarry, set atop Bodmin Moor, has a good selection of grades and a sunny aspect. At over a thousand feet in altitude, it’s hardly the most sheltered spot though!

Here’s Dave and Lins topping out on Peter (we did Star Fox which takes a direct line through similar territory – a joke at HVS, especially if you follow the incorrect description in Rockfax, and a clear winner of the “worst route of the trip” award – in fact it was the only contender!)

Here’s Helen and me finishing Juliet’s Balcony, which is a much better route at the same grade.

A sharp shower brought the fun to a close a bit precipitously, but I’m sure we’ll be back for some of the good looking sports routes on another occasion when the tides are conspiring.

More of the same the next day, and not a great deal of improvement on the horizon, so we decided to start making our way homewards via a stop off at the Dewerstone. The is set in a tranquil corner of Dartmoor, in lush woodland by the side of the gently burbling River Plym. There’s no real clue of a crag until you round a bend, and it’s hard not to be staggered when you are then confronted by a 50m high granite monolith.

V Diff to E1 is the sweet spot hereabouts, with some absolute classics in the HS to HVS range. Here’s Dave and Lins on the Top 50 Central Groove. Stupendous line with a couple of jamming corners and a magnificent wall smattered with boilerplate jug-handles.

Here’s Anna on Leviathan, a touch harder and almost as good.

A great spot and a fine, chilled session to end a tremendous couple of weeks in the South West.

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