RockAroundTheWorld has made a couple of previous overland trips to Greece, once taking in Hungary, Romania and Bulgaria on the way…

Highlights from a Balkan Odyssey 

… and once taking the “shortcut” via a ferry from Ancona on the Italian Adriatic coast across to Patras in the Peloponnese…

Greek Odyssey 2.0 – first stop: Frachti Cave

Both approaches had their charms, but for this year’s January trip the attraction of the “shortcut” was overwhelming. Just getting to Ancona is something of a traipse, a thousand miles or so, and the thermometer barely nudged into positive territory until we were well over the Alps. Minus 7C overnight in the Alsace.

Things perked up somewhat in Italy and we neared the Adriatic in sunshine, with half a day to spare. A trawl of various apps had us homing in on the unusual location of San Marino for a stop-off YECTOYD. This hill-top city state is actually well worth a visit, with the fortress of Guaita on Monte Titano poking out of a cloud inversion and providing stupendous views over the surrounding Italian countryside. The limestone outcrop it sits upon offers one of the more bizarre (if unarguably convenient) drive-by cragging spots we’ve ever encountered. The sandy limestone is actually quarried (though there is natural stone elsewhere on the same hill) and the locals have taken carte-blanche to chisel and drill a bunch of routes. When in Rome…

It was a good excuse for a leg / arm stretch, if not a destination venue!

Next morning it was “all aboard”…

… and 24hrs later the northern Peloponnese coast was heaving into view.

Within 60mins of disembarking we were parked under the School Sector in the glorious Strofylia National Park near Kalogria. We ended our 2019 trip here and vowed to return, not thinking it would take us 5 years to do so.

Kalogria

Sun-baked, slabby, and 5mins from the road, the perfect spot to grab a couple of routes, brush off the travel weariness and get the trip properly started.

As a nice bonus, we had a couple of Greek teams to share the crag with (now how often does that happen on Kalymnos?)

Helen led Mirmigi and Tzitziki…

… and I scraped my way up Diskilotitia, 6a and Tsimbouri, 6a+, feeling ring rusty from five days on the road and sea. With such a gorgeous outlook I couldn’t sulk for too long.

Back the next day for the adjacent Spadones Wall sector, 40m tall with lower slabby pitches on prickly grey rock topped off with steeper extensions. Another struggle on the excellent Cleopatra, 6a+, served as a reminder that Greek climbing isn’t all “holiday grades” and a “take” on the eponymous Spadones, 6a, almost had me checking return ferry sailings (I only stopped when I realised the app version of the guide had sent me up a 6b+). A stroll up Super Mario, 6b+, provided a much-needed mood boost and the good sense to quit whilst I was ahead.

Wending our way southwards, our next stop was Frygani, described here on a post from our last trip.

Frygani

One thing to report is the recommendation to park in the village rather than beneath the crag, following reports of a spate of break-ins a few years ago. It speaks volumes for the welcoming and hospitable Greek culture that these caused absolute uproar in the local community. Parking the van outside the little shack that sells local wines and produce, the patron was more than happy to keep an eye out for us, and I almost had to twist his arm to get him to accept the princely sum of €3 for a couple of litres of his finest red by way of a thank you! It’s no more than a 15mins walk from there to the crag – a small price for the peace of mind.

Here’s Helen on Sikyona Municipal, 6a (some of the routes were sponsored by local businesses!)

I did Arxontika Kefalari, 6b, made a decent stab at Feneos, 7a, and wasn’t a million miles off Pigolampida, 7a+, before quitting as the crag lost the sun around 3ish.

Another step along our southerly drift is the seaside town of Nafplio, which has a great array of crags nearby (it’d be a pretty good destination for a week’s sun rock hit, and you could probably even manage without a car). Just type “Nafplio” into the search bar for half a dozen crags. Alternatively there’s a nice sea side campsite at Lefka Beach about 20mins south of town.

With just a day before a forecasted damp one, we headed to Neraki – perhaps the pick of the bunch. A 15mins stroll along a waterfront track to arrive at this quiet spectacular orange pockety wall. There was a good contingent of Athens climbers out for the day – four days cragging and we’ve only met locals plus a Ukrainian refugee.

Looking back along the approach track you can see the Promenade Sector – also recommended.

We got more climbing pics, and covered ourselves in more glory, on our previous visit:

Nafplio – Sector Neraki

Highlights this time were Helen leading Laura (worth 6a in anyone’s money) and I enjoyed the 6b extension. My efforts to repeat Mr Snape, one of the 7as I did on the last trip, just went to prove you should never go back!

Hey ho, if you’re going to get your arse kicked, there are worse places…