Described in the guidebook as “the star attraction of Nafplio crags”, Neraki does actually manage to live up to the hype. Located about 1km south of the Promenade sector and accessed via a similarly attractive wander out of town, it’s a world-class lump of rock,
somewhat reminiscent of Las Encantadas in El Chorro (but much less polished and with an even better view)
There are only a couple of dozen routes on the Main crag, but four of them are deemed worthy of the “musical note” symbol. We managed 3 of these and can vouch for the quality.
Helen warmed up on Tzoutzouka, 5b+
Then we both did Anoixi, 6a, which was “only” worth 3* – tricky technical groove and the first polished foot hold we’ve encountered on the trip so far.
Next up was Mr Snape, 6b ¶ (I’m fed up of writing “musical note” so this’ll have to do!) which links some large holes through some steep ground via some loooong pulls. Excellent! This gets you to a ledge and lower-off where you can bank the 6b or shake out before pressing on up the extension.
This is in complete contrast, being a very techie corner / groove where the holds get smaller a bit faster than the angle eases, making for some on-or-off smearing laybackery to finish and claim the 7a and another ¶
The remaining ¶ route, another 7a, will have to wait for another day, but looks well worth coming back for!