Egg Dance on The Grail is apparently one of the most sought after ascents in Meteora – a twin-summited tower with the higher summit formed by a huge rectangular block (about 30m x 10m x 10m) which is supposed to look like a grail.
Anyway, the route involves 4 pitches to the subsidiary summit followed by a down-climb into the notch and a swing across the void on some fixed tat before climbing the crux 6a+ pitch to the top. All quite airy but good fun and you get to write in TWO summit books!
Descent is by abseil down the back and the guidebook says a 35m rap followed by 30m to the ground. Well, I found a single bolt about 35m down but there was a LOT more than 30m to the ground (which is a bit of a problem if you’re using a doubled 80m rope). Deciding to exercise good mountain judgement I jummared back to the top again and we set about abbing down the route to be on the safe side (a bit of a faff recrossing the void but no real problem). Later investigation of the definitive guide revealed that our instructions had failed to mention a 15m ab between the 35 and the 30!
Anyway, lots of nice views of monasteries and conglomerate towers – it really is a magical place, straight out of the Mordillo cartoons I remember from my childhood.