Reguchillo was one of the major “finds” from our Andalusia adventures last year, although we only had a short day there between downpours. It certainly ticked the “one to come back to” box.
No problem with rain this time, it was a bit too toasty if anything. Armed with a new guide to the Jaén area we set out to explore further (our first visit involved much web guesswork).
Over a couple of days we climbed some great routes across the grade range. There’s a nice, newish sector towards the left of sector Frontales which has a decent bunch of 5s
Then sector Curvilla above the first hairpin with the outstanding Chupacabras, one of the best 6b+ I’ve done, plus La Julia del Bulbo, a great 7a and El Nene – a near miss 7a (warning – Beta reminder / hint… Right hand crimp then left into hidden finger slot!)
And also a foray further up the hill towards sector Peperoli where some goat-launched rock salvos encouraged an early retreat…
Worth bearing in mind that there’s a new access agreement in place which discourages climbers parking on the narrow road up to the crag – seems to be largely observed by locals and it’s only an extra 10mins walk, so probably best to help maintain good relationships – this is a contender for “best crag in Spain you’ve never heard of”
We also got our hands on the recent (2016) Jaén guide, which as well as sorting out the Reguchillo route confusion also has more than 20 more crags in the area! You can just about pick out the line of crags beneath the castle in the picture above, which are in turn dwarfed by the huge skyline crags. A few km winding up into the hills you find the multi pitch roadside crag of Salto de la Cabre and a little further a series of towering orange walls including Diedres del Sol, pictured below in the flaming sunset. There are 3 and 4 pitch routes strewn across this huge expanse of adventure!
The biggest drawback is there isn’t a campsite within 50 miles of the city, though we did find a couple of grand overnight parking spots – anyway, there’s a few weeks worth to go at here, so we’ll be back!