Anglesey… but not Gogarth

With a shortish day and a plan to rendezvous with Jim and Claire on the Llyn, we were looking for a crag somewhere along the A55 that we hadn’t been to before and wouldn’t be in the shade…

Enter White Beach Crag at Fedw Fawr, about 20 mins from the Menai Bridge just beyond Beaumaris.

This sunny little sports crag has all the scenic charm of its more famous cousin on the other side of Anglesey, with none of the hassle (walk-in approach, bolt protection and lower off when you’re finished – there is a bit of loose rock though). We enjoyed all the routes we did. Tricky Fruitbat is obscenely steep for a 6a+,

Bunty ditto. Mike’s Glory is a very good 6b with a tough topout

and 42 Moves a fabulous jug-fest to a very stiff pull to the lower off.

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