This is the real deal in terms of designer winter cragging. About 50 very fine routes positioned above a charming seaside Promenade and only a few minutes walk from handy parking in town, which also seems to serve as the local campervan stopover.
What more could you ask for?
Actually, strictly speaking, climbing is banned (as is walking!) due to a rockfall a few years ago, though this doesn’t seem to be enforced.
Anyway, the routes we did were all thoroughly enjoyable, and the advice to leave a visit for a cloudy winter’s day was fully bourn out when the sun did break through and we found ourselves in a furnace!
We warmed up on a couple of 6as – Creation 1 was considerably tougher than Sunnseitn, but both were worth doing.
With the proximity of the sea it’s well worth a shufty at the bolts before you set off – we weeded out a few options based on some rusty remnants, but all the routes we did had gear that seemed to be in good nic.
Octopussy, 6c, gets the “musical note” icon in the Aris guide, denoting 4* / Top 50 kind of quality, and he isn’t wrong – it’s a belter. Unfortunately I managed to missread the sequence through the roof.
I had more luck on Bicky (or Vicky – Bs are pronounced as a V) also 6c – a sustained 30m crack-fest without any really desperate moves.
Also outstanding was No Fear, 6a, a stupendous line up steep territory on generous pockets.
Oh, I do like to be beside the seaside!