Auckengill – a quarried crag with a difference

Halfway between John O’Groats and Wick, this esoteric little crag is probably the most northeasterly on the UK mainland that ever gets climbed (there are reported routes on the Duncansby Stacks but that’s taking things to another level!) It’s about 6 weeks since we climbed at Chair Ladder (a stone’s throw from Land’s End) for our take on a LEJO’G https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2021/04/27/carn-barra-chair-ladder-and-porthgwarra/

A quarried crag with routes of about 8m is barely worth blogging, but I risk bringing it to your attention because it is smattered with tons of guidebook stars (all be it a bit generously!) and it’s in a gorgeous spot!

Non-tidal, sheltered from the westerlies and 200m from the road, it’s an ideal location if you are a bit jaded or just want a break from full-on seacliff action.

We did almost all of the starred routes. Here’s Helen on Amber Gambler, HVS

and Green for Go, VS 4c

Plenty of time for a sundowner at Dunnet Head (the most northerly point on the UK mainland – as the bloke at the campsite said “John O’Groats is just a tat shop”)

Distant views of Hoy and you can just about make out The Old Man

… and closer by, the incredible mayhem of birdlife on the cliffs beneath the lighthouse.

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