The area around Lleida, and specifically near Camarasa, has an unusual microclimate – often enjoying high pressure and blue skies in winter, even if the air temperature might be struggling to make double figures. It certainly looked like the best bet when we were escaping a mini monsoon in Gandía, with a localised weather system putting a dampener on much of the Blanca for a few days, and was a handy spot to catch up with Jim and Claire making their way down from France.
We ended up staying a week on the convenient Camping La Noguera, next to the lake in Saint Llorenç de Montgai. As the post heading suggests, we mostly revisited crags we’d been to before, as well as finding a few new sectors to explore, so I came up with the idea for this “area roundup” which might be useful for those considering a visit for a week or two – there’s certainly plenty to go at!
Camarasa, Crestes de Conill – this sunny sector is just a couple of miles from the campsite, with around 30 routes, mostly 5c to 6b+, on a grey, steep slabby fin of limestone.
Cubells, L’Indret – a new (to us anyway) crag, a couple of miles away from the more established Cubells crag. Not huge, with 18 routes, mostly V to 6b, but with a great outlook and a sunny aspect. Parking here: 41.866461° N 00.949800° E and follow the cairned path up to near the top of the crag before dropping down to its base – about 10 minutes.
There’s a topo here:
We did a bunch of routes V to 6b – enjoyable but tending towards stiff for the grade.
Camarasa, Sector La Cova de l’Escaleta – Sector Solarium was one of our favourite finds of our last trip to the area…
… and we made a note to ourselves to explore the sector a couple of hundred metres further left. This is similarly sunny and high quality, with the bonus of not featuring in a guidebook (we used TheCrag) so was empty…
when Solarium was quite busy…
The left hand two routes on the sector are both excellent. 155, 6a (stiff!) and Malo Malote, V+
La Cassolada looked like a me-friendly 7a, being mostly up a crack. The crux turned out to be where the crack disappeared (obvious in hindsight!)
Also had another lap on Diedro Dubai, 7a, because I’d enjoyed it so much last time. Routes to go back for include Milagros and Bat Girl and The Riddler (lose the sun early)
Castletonroi, Sector Solana – we’d visited the Amics sector a year ago…
… and planned to return to explore the Solana sector. Check out the approach and link to the topo in the previous post.
We enjoyed the climbing, doing most of the rightmost ten routes between us, but struggled to make the topo match the rock at times!
Ager, Baranc de Grillons – One of my favourite crags in the area, a 40m high suntrap (just as well as the altitude is well over a thousand metres).
Our plan for a revisit got off to a slow start as we tried to leave the campsite only to find the road closed by the Balaguer half marathon. Judging by the pacers, we’d be in for a long wait, but we were able to make a dash for freedom once the runners had thinned, dodging police roadblocks on narrow dirt roads away from the route.
Fab spot!
Cubells – Another superb suntrap, and one of Helen’s favourites, so I was largely in rest day / belay bunny mode.
Os de Balaguer – Another favourite haunt set in a narrow cirque giving sheltered toasty climbing on the south facing walls. Only a couple of routes below 6b but loads to do beyond that.
We had a mixed bag of a day, grinding to a halt on a succession of 6b+s (I blame the heat!) but managing Lesio Continua, 7a, on the shady L’Heretge wall at the entrance to the gorge.
Time for a rest day and a change of scene after a fantastic week. Meanwhile, for completeness, here’s a few more blog links to crags within about 45mins of the campsite (and don’t forget to grab a copy of the POD Lleida guide to help you find your way around).
RockAroundTheWorld 
thanks for that, great summary of the crags. One of our favorite areas and heading there again in 10 days. Might try alto mijares first based on your recommendation
Glad you enjoyed it, Jeff. You’ll absolutely love Alto Mijares – report back 🙂 Cheers, Dom